One of the drawbacks of enjoying a nice family vacation is that my distance running training regimen is disrupted and I invariably lose some fitness. Our trip to Ethiopia in July 2010 was an exception to this general rule since it was a fitness-focused vacation. This month, however, we did something in between a “traditional” sightseeing vacation and a fitness-focused vacation. We traveled to Cusco, Peru, to help organize an inaugural road race (see the “Inca Dash” entry below) and we also booked a four-day trekking excursion on the Inca Trail to visit the world-renowned Machu Picchu site. The trekking was meant to be an opportunity to have some quality family time away from the distractions of our work-related and social-networking-obsessed world and experience the wonder of this special place featured on the list of the “Seven New Wonders of the World.” However, we didn’t expect the rigorous fitness challenge involved in this trek, which came as both a welcome and unwelcome surprise.
I’m no stranger to challenging hikes. My father instilled in me a passion and appreciation for hiking, camping, and experiencing the great outdoors. I hiked throughout my childhood in Connecticut and during college and law school in Upstate New York and Northern New England. Virtually all of those hikes were fewer than 5 miles long and were conducted on mountains in the 2,000 to 7,000 ft. range. But the Inca Trail is in an entirely different class of hiking. It involves 50 kilometers (31 miles) of challenging hiking in four days while braving some not-so-friendly weather and high-altitude conditions (ranging from approximately 11,000-13,200 ft.)
I knew that the Inca Trail would be a challenge if for no other reason than that it would engage muscles that I haven’t used for several years. But I never imagined the multi-faceted challenges the Inca Trail trek would present in our brief four-day adventure. This fair-weather Florida flatlander was in for a rude awakening. And the rude awakening was well timed. It came at a time when my mental toughness and the endurance in my legs had failed me in my most recent competitive distance running efforts (two half marathons) in October and November 2011. These four days away from the rest of the world would toughen me up mentally and physically in ways that running 30 miles per week in Florida never could. And this experience would remind me that cross training is an essential component to my success as a competitive distance runner. We plan to purchase a family membership to the YMCA next week so I can return to a regimen of weight lifting and ergometer (indoor rowing) training to supplement my weekly mileage so I can prepare more effectively for my upcoming road races in Florida.
Day 1: “It’s a Beautiful Day”
Our day began with a two-hour, white-knuckle bus ride to reach “Kilometer 82,” the start of the Inca Trail trek. We were brimming with energy and enthusiasm as we posed for our group picture and prepared to embark on our journey.

We were told that our first day of trekking wouldn’t be too difficult. However, once we saw the beginning of the trail (see photo below), we worried that if Day 1 is not difficult, what was Day 2, which our guides warned us would be very difficult, going to be like? On Day 1, there were challenging stretches of terrain that taxed the legs a bit, but the biggest challenge was the altitude. Just walking on city streets at 11,000 ft. in downtown Cusco makes you feel a little short of breath, so when you try to walk up steep inclines under those conditions, you get tired rather quickly.

The combination of altitude and some steep inclines posed enough of a challenge, so the surprising and pleasantly warm temperatures on Day 1 became a nagging annoyance as the day progressed. By the time we were within 20 minutes of our first camp site on Day 1, I could feel the ugly head of dehydration peering over my shoulder. I started to breathe more heavily and I was feeling very fatigued. I didn’t have much water at all during our seven hours of trekking that day and it was really taking its toll on me. I had too many layers on and was sweating profusely for hours. By the end of our hike, the temperature started to drop and I was beginning to feel cold. And the unpleasant weight of the monkey on my back (a.k.a. the backpack) didn’t make things any easier as it only make me sweat more. Nigara and I purchased a bottle of Gatorade at our last checkpoint (about an hour before our campsite), but we only drank half of it. We felt that Alek would need it more that we did because he was carrying Nigara’s backpack in addition to his own by that point in the journey (and he would for the next three days).

“Shiver Me Timbers”: A Near Case of Hypothermia
I was very thirsty by the time we arrived at the campsite, which is a very bad sign because I have been severely dehydrated in the past in my distance running training and racing even before feeling thirsty. I went directly to our tent and crawled inside my sleeping bag wearing my warmest jacket and fleece, long pants, a wool hat, and gloves, and I was still shivering uncontrollably. Nigara wondered if I would need to be evacuated by helicopter for medical attention and urged me to drink hot coca-leaf tea with milk, which she brought from the dining tent to warm me up.
At dinner that evening, I was wearing that same warm clothing and yet I was still shivering. I was very uncomfortable during dinner and didn’t eat much. I was sure to drink plenty of water that evening and the following morning. Fortunately, that did the trick and my dehydration symptoms did not return for the remainder of the trip. However, Alek had a brief shivering episode at the end of Day 2 after standing for 30 minutes earlier that day at the highest point of our trek at 13,200 feet in a snow shower while waiting for the rest of the group to arrive.
Before turning in for the night on Day 1, we were instructed not to leave our footwear outside our tents because the fleet foxes that were endemic to the area could run off with them as they had with the footwear of many unsuspecting trekkers in the past. That’s good advice because confronting the challenges of Day 2 while barefoot definitely was not an option! After all of the challenges we confronted during Day 1, we quietly dreaded what lay in store for us on the notorious Day 2. And fear was the appropriate response to anticipate what we were about to endure.
Day 2: “Ain’t No Mountain High Enough, Ain’t No Valley Low Enough”
The challenges awaiting us on Day 2 were not the stuff of urban legend. They were very real and, if anything, they were even more daunting than any of us had anticipated, even after all of the hype from the guides about how tough it would be. Our nine hours of trekking on Day 2 featured the worst of both worlds – steep uphill climbs that never seemed to level off, and scary descents that felt like tip-toeing down a gutter pipe from a rooftop. But that’s not all – to add insult to injury, we were treated to a snow shower (not entirely inappropriate considering it was Christmas day) as we neared the summit of our Day 2 journey at 13,200 ft. For those of you in the Northeastern United States, this mountain is twice the elevation of Mt. Washington, the highest peak in New England.
The Florida flatlander contingent was terribly unprepared for what we encountered on this trek overall, and particularly on Day 2. Alek and I were wearing sneakers (at least his were “trail sneakers,” whereas mine were worn-out regular running sneakers). We didn’t own or rent the standard pair of trekking poles. Instead, we purchased a single makeshift wooden pole for each of us from the locals. I used to think that trekking poles are all show and had no value – WRONG! We also didn’t have proper clothing. My gloves were circa 1993 and they weren’t even waterproof, which proved to be a problem because I couldn’t wear them again after they got soaking wet on Day 2. In addition, unlike most of our fellow trekkers, our pants weren’t waterproof, either.
Many marathon runners will tell you that after your legs have been taxed for hours, the downhill segments of a race can be as difficult, if not more difficult, than the uphill segments. This pearl of wisdom was even more relevant as applied to this trek. Not only were the downhill segments brutally hard on the quads because you had to hold back your entire body mass with every step, but it was compounded by the fact that most of those downward steps were insanely steep and slippery, unlike the mere downward slope of a paved road. As I write this entry three days after the conclusion of our trek, Nigara’s legs are still throbbing with pain, and she has been running about 10 miles per week for the past year or so.
Another marathon analogy is relevant at this juncture to capture the mood of Day 2. Marathon races have “sag wagons,” which are vehicles that patrol the back of the pack and sweep up runners who elect to drop out of the race. If there had been a sag wagon available on Day 2 on the Inca Trail, I surely would have hopped on board and allowed myself to be transported back to the comforts of civilization. So, I’m glad that such an option wasn’t available. All I could do was “shut up and suck it up,” as Alek told me to do on several occasions, and that was the right thing to do (at least I can say that with confidence now that we are enjoying a brief stay at a nice hotel in Lima).

Nigara’s efforts on Day 2 were inspiring. She doesn’t have nearly the athletic background or conditioning base that I do and yet she pushed herself to stay with the trek during times when most would have given up (even I almost gave up on more than one occasion). I should also mention that Nigara and I were the oldest members of the group by a significant margin (apart from Alek, all of the members of the group were in their 20’s and 30’s).

No hard work is done in vain, and this trek was no exception to that rule. Our hard work was handsomely rewarded at the end of Day 2 with a breathtaking setting for our campsite. It’s not every day that you get to wake up to a vista like this, eh?

Day 3: “Welcome to the Jungle”
The whole group, especially our two guides, whose livelihood depended on bringing us all back to Cusco alive, breathed a collective sigh of relief after surviving Day 2. But we weren’t nearly out of the woods just yet (pardon the pun). The Inca Trail is home to several micro-climates that trekkers experience within a very short period of time. After braving the snow and wind of the high point of our journey on Day 2, we descended 3,000 feet into the “jungle” on Day 3 and had to apply liberal amounts of repellant to fend off the mosquitoes. We also saw earthworms that were the size of small snakes and moths that rivaled the size of small bats.

“There’s Just No Joy in This”
I heard this sentiment from a fellow trekkie at the end of Day 3. There were several moments during Day 2 and Day 3 when I felt the same way. Day 3 became a royal pain in the neck for me… literally. I developed a severe stiff neck from carrying that monkey on my back. The pain radiated into my shoulders, mid-back, and arms. Even with the help of my dear friend, Advil, I still struggled with discomfort.

There was no getting around it …this was hard. Each trekker spent a fair amount of the journey feeling too warm, too cold, too wet, too sore, or just generally too miserable. If anyone claimed to have made it through four days of tip-toeing on steep steps and slippery rocks without falling, they would be lying. Alek and I fell about five times each, fortunately without broken bones or bloodshed, and Nigara managed to stay out of harm’s way, too, with just a few slips.
We work hard in our daily lives. Vacation is supposed to be a break from the “hard” stuff. But character building can and should happen outside the office. And nothing worthwhile and meaningful in life ever comes easy, right?
I should also mention that all of us felt quite grungy during the trek. It’s rare to go four days without a shower or shave, especially while engaging in rigorous exercise all four days. But we did. And we emitted the pungent odor (and abundant whisker stubble and greasy hair) to prove it.
These challenges notwithstanding, Day 4 finally came. We eagerly prepared ourselves for our long-awaited opportunity to come face to face with Machu Picchu.
Day 4: “And You Know it Don’t Come Easy”
So, Day 4 was supposed to be “easy street” for our weary cast of trekkers … just coast to the finish line (or so we were told). But nothing comes easy in this experience, and that’s why you choose to do it, right? You could have opted to sip tropical drinks at a resort in the Caribbean but you CHOSE to be here, for better or worse. And so the “tough love” rewards of our excursion persisted on Day 4.
A challenging 3:30 a.m. wake-up got things underway on Day 4. This obscenely early start was tempered by the fact that we were served a nice banana pancake breakfast. But that benefit was soon lost as we had to stand and wait in the “public herd” check point line for almost an hour after breakfast waiting to begin our trek inside the national park in which Machu Picchu is located.
Then it rained. A steady, cold, pre-sunrise rain that makes you want nothing more than to return to a warm bed or a hot shower to escape this purgatory. And then we had to endure some more challenging “Inca flat” terrain (extreme rolling hills by anyone else’s standards) as we sloshed in puddles and mud toward our final destination. To make matters worse, there was a thick layer of fog in every direction as we approached Machu Picchu, and our hearts sank. Had we really overcome all of the challenges in the past four days only to have our ultimate destination shrouded in clouds?

Oh no — it appears that Mr. Banana and Mr. Pear have escaped from the set of the Fruit of the Loom commercial
The rain and fog finally did subside. “Up ahead in the distance, I saw a shimmering light….” It was the sun finally peeking through the clouds, exposing an increasingly vast expanse of blue sky.


The blue sky exposed the glorious setting in which Macchu Picchu is located. “And I was thinking to myself, this could be heaven or this could be …” Brigadoon, the kingdom of the Wizard of Oz, or perhaps some other fantasy dreamscape, but this surely cannot be part of the natural world. It was unlike any part of the natural world that I had ever experienced, including the past three days of breathtaking scenery on the Inca Trail. It became clear to me why the Incas chose to locate their sacred city in this location – this was literally the garden of the gods.
The only thing that was more awe-inspiring than the setting for Machu Picchu was Machu Picchu itself. It was just pure magic. Pictures can likely convey the sheer beauty and mystery of the place better than I can in words. We snapped billions of pictures, which was yet another challenge because our lips were so brutally chapped from the elements that it was difficult to smile by Day 4.



A Few Words about the Cast and Crew
The Tour Guides: Aldo and Oscar were great leaders for our journey. Experienced, supportive, and fun, they helped us understand what to expect and enabled us to get the most out of the expedition by providing us with valuable cultural, historical, and ecological information about what we were witnessing on our journey. We highly recommend SAS Tours for your journey to Machu Picchu, www.sastravelperu.com.


The Chefs: You wouldn’t expect to eat well while on a remote trekking trip tucked away high in the Andes Mountains. But the food was excellent; definitely not your typical “heat up a can of baked beans” camping cuisine with which I was familiar. We were treated to excellent homemade soups, gourmet main course dishes such as stuffed chicken breast, Peruvian beef stew, and a tantalizing array of delicious vegetarian options for this hungry trekker. Breakfast was outstanding and featured pancakes, omelets, and porridge. There was also a wide array of tasty comfort food that you wouldn’t expect while camping that added a nice touch (e.g., pizza, cake, and delicious popcorn). All of the ingredients that comprised our daily nourishment, even the eggs, were carried on the backs of the porters all the way from Cusco.

The Porters: These brave souls churned up daunting inclines and ran down treacherous slippery rocks while carrying massive 50-lb. payloads on their backs. Simply put, they were like oompa loompas on steroids (powered by the mysterious “energy drinks” of Peru — coca tea and chicha). They quietly went about their business in an efficient, courteous, and humble manner. They never complained and never let us down. And many of them did it all while wearing sandals that had absolutely no traction on that treacherous terrain.

The Participants: Fourteen of us from all corners of the globe (Australia, Ireland, England, Denmark, France, and the U.S.) came to Peru to work toward the common goal of conquering the Inca Trail and embracing the wonder of Machu Picchu. We bonded quickly and the time and conversation we shared made the experience much more meaningful and enriching.

Despite all of its challenges, this experience was amazing. As crazy as it may sound, we are seriously considering tackling another (even more challenging) trek in Peru next year. Alek is determined to “work his way up” to climb Mt. Everest one day.
To conclude on the lighter side, I believe that this life-changing experience can best be summarized with the following Top 10 list:
Top Ten Reasons Why You Just Might Be an “Inca Trail Trekkie”
10. You managed to acquire frostbite and sunburn in the span of 24 hours.
9. You smell like a bar of soap has never touched your body.
8. Your fashion ensemble is likely to be perceived as a cross between the wardrobe for “Castaway” and “Into the Wild.”
7. You would do anything for a flush toilet with a seat.
6. You talk about bodily functions more often and more explicitly than most civilized people would deem acceptable.
5. You feel an overwhelming sense of disdain for the throngs of well-groomed, fresh-smelling, day trip tourists who arrive at Machu Picchu by bus or train.
4. You are convinced that chewing gum before bedtime is an adequate substitute for brushing your teeth.
3. You have no idea what day of the week it is.
2. Your legs feel like they have been pummeled repeatedly with a lead pipe.
1. You are awestruck by the magic and mystery of the Inca civilization.